The simplest habits protect the most. These foundational practices cost nothing but attention —
and they make the difference between a shoe that looks tired after two years and one that
deepens in character over twenty.

Rotate Your Pairs
Never wear the same pair on consecutive days. Each wearing saturates the leather with
moisture from your feet. A minimum of 24 hours' rest allows the leather to breathe, dry fully, and
recover its shape. Building a rotation of three or more pairs is the single most effective thing you
can do to extend the life of your shoes.
Use a Shoehorn — Always
Every time you put on your shoes, use a long-handled shoehorn. This preserves the heel
counter — the stiffened internal structure that gives your shoe its silhouette. Forcing your foot in
without one crushes this structure permanently and cannot be repaired.
Insert Shoe Trees After Every Wear
Shoe trees are not optional. They serve two essential functions: they wick moisture from the
interior, and they hold the shoe in its correct last shape as the leather dries. Without them, the
leather contracts unevenly and creases deepen into cracks. Cedar trees are ideal — they
absorb moisture and impart a natural freshness.
Brush Before Storing
After each wear, use a soft horsehair brush to remove surface dust, grit, and salt from the
uppers and welt. Grit left on leather acts as an abrasive. This step takes thirty seconds and
prevents significant long-term damage.

Leather is a natural material. It needs moisture to remain supple, and nourishment to resist
cracking. Conditioning is the foundation of any polishing routine — wax alone cannot protect
leather that has been neglected.

Step 1 — Clean the Uppers
Before conditioning, clean the shoe thoroughly. Use a horsehair brush to remove any
accumulated dirt from the uppers and the welt strip. For deeper cleaning, a slightly damp cloth
or a dedicated leather cleaner can be used on stubborn marks. Allow the shoe to dry fully before
proceeding.
Step 2 — Apply a Cream Polish
Apply a high-quality cream polish — we recommend Saphir Pommadier Crème, a beeswax-
based formula — using an applicator brush or a soft cotton cloth. Work the cream in using
small, slow circular motions across the entire upper. Choose a colour that closely matches your
shoe; for Dornford patinas, neutral cream is often safest.
Allow the cream to penetrate for approximately 20 minutes, then buff off the excess with a clean
horsehair brush. The leather should feel visibly nourished and slightly sheened — not sticky or
over-saturated.

Polishing serves two purposes: it provides a protective barrier against moisture and abrasion,
and it builds the surface lustre that distinguishes a well-kept shoe. The two primary finishes are
a natural buff and a high-gloss mirror shine.

Applying Polishing Wax
Use a high-quality hard wax polish — Saphir Médaille d'Or, composed of natural beeswax and
turpentine, is the benchmark. Wrap a chamois cloth tightly around your index and middle
fingers. Apply a very small amount of wax — less than you think you need — and work it into
the leather using slow, circular motions.

Pay particular attention to the toe and heel, which take the most abrasion. Use a welt brush or a
toothbrush to work wax into the welt joint and along the heel edge. Allow to dry for 30 minutes,
then buff vigorously with a horsehair brush.
Building a Mirror Shine
A high-gloss toe shine — sometimes called a spit shine or boning — is built through thin,
layered applications of wax and water. Apply a tiny amount of wax to the cloth, place a few
drops of water on the toe cap, and work the wax into the surface using the lightest possible
circular pressure. Each pass should leave the surface fractionally clearer. Repeat across the
entire shoe. Allow to dry fully before re-lacing.
Frequency
As a general guide, light brushing after every wear, cream conditioning every 4–6 weeks, and a
full wax polish every 8–10 wearings. Shoes worn in rain or wet conditions should be conditioned
more frequently once dry.

Suede and reverse-calf leathers require a different approach to smooth leathers — they should
never be treated with wax or cream polish. All Dornford suede shoes leave our workshop pre-
treated with a water-resistant protective spray.

Routine Brushing
Use a dedicated suede brush to restore the nap and remove surface dust after each wear.
Brush in a single direction to keep the grain consistent. This also gives suede a naturally fresh,
even appearance.
Water Damage
If your suede is caught in rain, allow the shoes to dry naturally away from direct heat. Once fully
dry, use a suede brush in gentle circular motions over any water-marked areas. The nap will
generally restore.
Scuffs and Marks
For scuffs, use a suede eraser — applying moderate pressure over the affected area. For
deeper marks, a suede renovation spray in the appropriate colour can restore an even finish.
Prevention
Apply a quality water and stain repellent every three months, or after any heavy exposure. Avoid
wearing suede in heavy rain or snow.

Pay particular attention to the toe and heel, which take the most abrasion. Use a welt brush or a
toothbrush to work wax into the welt joint and along the heel edge. Allow to dry for 30 minutes,
then buff vigorously with a horsehair brush.
Building a Mirror Shine
A high-gloss toe shine — sometimes called a spit shine or boning — is built through thin,
layered applications of wax and water. Apply a tiny amount of wax to the cloth, place a few
drops of water on the toe cap, and work the wax into the surface using the lightest possible
circular pressure. Each pass should leave the surface fractionally clearer. Repeat across the
entire shoe. Allow to dry fully before re-lacing.
Frequency
As a general guide, light brushing after every wear, cream conditioning every 4–6 weeks, and a
full wax polish every 8–10 wearings. Shoes worn in rain or wet conditions should be conditioned
more frequently once dry.

How you store your shoes when not in wear matters as much as how you care for them in use.

Short-Term Storage
After wearing, allow the shoes to air for at least 24 hours before placing them in dust bags. This
airing allows internal moisture to escape fully. Storing shoes while still damp encourages mould
and accelerates leather deterioration.
Dust Bags
Always store your Dornford shoes in their cotton dust bags. The bags protect against dust
settlement, surface scuffs, and light exposure, which can fade leather and patina over time.
Shoe Boxes
For pairs that are not in your active rotation — seasonal shoes or occasional pairs — keep them
in their original Dornford box with shoe trees inserted. This provides a stable, dust-free
environment and protects the shape.
Travelling
Always travel with your shoes in individual dust bags, preventing them from rubbing against
each other or against hard surfaces inside your luggage. A dedicated shoe bag or compartment
in your luggage is strongly recommended.

Pay particular attention to the toe and heel, which take the most abrasion. Use a welt brush or a
toothbrush to work wax into the welt joint and along the heel edge. Allow to dry for 30 minutes,
then buff vigorously with a horsehair brush.
Building a Mirror Shine
A high-gloss toe shine — sometimes called a spit shine or boning — is built through thin,
layered applications of wax and water. Apply a tiny amount of wax to the cloth, place a few
drops of water on the toe cap, and work the wax into the surface using the lightest possible
circular pressure. Each pass should leave the surface fractionally clearer. Repeat across the
entire shoe. Allow to dry fully before re-lacing.
Frequency
As a general guide, light brushing after every wear, cream conditioning every 4–6 weeks, and a
full wax polish every 8–10 wearings. Shoes worn in rain or wet conditions should be conditioned
more frequently once dry.

One of the defining advantages of Goodyear handwelted construction — the method used on
Dornford shoe — is that the sole is stitched to the welt, not bonded to the upper. This means the
sole can be replaced without compromising the upper leather. A Dornford shoe properly cared
for can be resoled multiple times across decades of wear.

When to Resole
The outer sole should be replaced when the heel or ball of the foot begins to wear through to
the welt stitching. Waiting too long risks damage to the welt itself, which is a more involved and
expensive repair.

Choosing a Cobbler

For a Goodyear welted shoe, always use a cobbler who has experience with welted
construction. A cobbler unfamiliar with the method may suggest cementing a replacement sole
— this negates the advantage of the welt and is not recommended.
Heel Maintenance
Heel tips — the rubber or leather insert at the very back of the heel — wear faster than the main
sole. Replacing heel tips regularly is inexpensive and prevents heel wear from spreading to the
heel block, which is a larger repair.

A summary of recommended care frequencies and products.
TASK FREQUENCY RECOMMENDED PRODUCT
Brushing (dust removal) After every wear Horsehair shoe brush
Shoe trees inserted After every wear Cedar shoe trees
Cream conditioning Every 4–6 weeks Saphir Pommadier Crème
Wax polishing Every 8–10 wearings Saphir Médaille d'Or
Suede brushing After every wear Suede brush
Suede waterproofing Every 3 months Water & stain repellent spray
Heel tip check Every 3–4 months Via trusted cobbler
Resoling As needed Goodyear welt cobbler

Choosing a Cobbler

For a Goodyear welted shoe, always use a cobbler who has experience with welted
construction. A cobbler unfamiliar with the method may suggest cementing a replacement sole
— this negates the advantage of the welt and is not recommended.
Heel Maintenance
Heel tips — the rubber or leather insert at the very back of the heel — wear faster than the main
sole. Replacing heel tips regularly is inexpensive and prevents heel wear from spreading to the
heel block, which is a larger repair.